If you're a coffee enthusiast looking for your next adventure, look no further than Mexico. This February, I embarked on a journey that took me through the lush coffee-growing regions of this vibrant country, where I experienced everything from small-scale indigenous farms to expansive family-run operations. The experience was nothing short of eye-opening, and I'm here to share the highlights with you.
A honey and chocolate tasting at Buna Cafe's Roastery in Mexico City
I had previously travelled to Veracruz, Mexico in 2016, right after the Rioja blight had decimated over 30% of the coffee harvest. When I had visited previously, the producers that I spoke to were in the process of replanting with new varieties with the hope that the crops would be more disease resistant. Unfortunately, this year, the rains did not come at the right time and the weather had an adverse effect on the crop in Veracruz, so I was not able to visit the same places that I had previously to see the progress of the replanted trees from 2016.
Our trip in February began in Mexico City, where I met up with the other members of our travelling group. Mexico City has a wealth of Specialty coffee shops and we had the opportunity to visit Buna Coffee’s roastery and cafe in Los Doctores to meet with the head coffee roaster and Operations Manager Kike Medina. Buna Coffee is doing some incredible things in Mexico, from working to improve soil quality to improving the overall cafe experience. On our visit, we tried the coffees that they have been excited to share with the consumer, as well as some of their chocolate bars, made from bean to bar in their coffee roastery, and some of the different types of honeys, such as coffee blossom honey, that they are offering in their cafes.
A new coffee sapling being planted in the Amaquil community in Tenejapa, Chiapas
From Mexico City, we headed to the southern state of Chiapas, known for its rich coffee tradition and lush landscapes. Here, the mountains and forests create the perfect microclimate for growing coffee, and I couldn't wait to see the process up close. I had never been to this region before and it was interesting to see how different the growing conditions were than in Veracruz. We set up camp in San Cristobal for a few nights which also has some incredible Specialty Cafes such as Caffeologia.
One of the most memorable stops was to Tenejapa, to visit small plots of coffee farms, operated by the Indigenous people of the Amaquil community. As we walked through the coffee trees, our guide explained how these farmers rely on traditional methods to nourish their plants and harvest the coffee cherries. They use minimal machinery, and machinery that is used is human-powered.
It was incredible to see the dedication and hard work that goes into producing each coffee cherry in this remote community. The leader of the farming group, Don Alonzo Gomez-Perez, mostly speaking in the local Mayan language Tzeltal, explained how they select the best cherries, hand-picking them at peak ripeness to ensure the best flavour and the best price on the marketplace. Each farm is around 1 hectare each, with each plot of land producing around 800 kilos of coffee.
Ripe, red coffee cherries, ready for harvest in Tierra y Libertad
Next, We headed to Tierra y Libertad, which is close to the Sepultura Biosphere Reserve. In the village, we met with Doña Arminda, head of the local coffee growing cooperative who aids in making sure that the coffee producers that are in the cooperative get a fair wage for their crop. We ate a traditional breakfast of Caldo Ares with Posole to drink, while Doña Arminda spoke with us about how the cooperative has grown from 8 to 35 members and how production amongst the members of the coop increased 100% in the past 6 years. After breakfast, we then headed to the centrally located eco-mill, where the members of the cooperative process their coffee cherries, part of the reason for the success of the producers of the Tierra y Libertad coffee growing cooperative.
Coffee Cherries ready for processing at the eco-mill in Tierra y Libertad. You can see the coffee fruit pulp in the background, that has been removed from the coffee cherry by the eco-mill. The coffee pulp will be used as fertiliser for the mature coffee plants after the harvest is finished.
At the eco-mill, each cooperative member can use the mill to process their harvested coffee cherries. The eco-mill uses 1 Litre of water per kilo of coffee cherries, supplied by a closeby stream, rather than a traditional mill which uses 12 Litres of water per kilo of coffee cherries. Not only is the eco-mill more efficient and has less impact on the local environment, but it also allows for better quality of coffee produced by the farmers in this area- there is more uniformity in the processing and fewer cuts, milling damage, and defects, resulting in more sellable, higher quality green coffee.
Freshly pulped coffee. This coffee will then be dried on raised beds and patios for 3-5 days, then stored for up to 6 months before it is milled, sorted and made ready for export.
From the eco-mill, we headed to visit the larger-scale family farm, El Eden, operated by the 5 Arellano brothers, where modern technology meets tradition. The brothers have been in the coffee business for decades with very organised plots of coffee plants, with each brother being responsible for their own plot of 3 hectares.
The farm grows Marsellesa, Costa Rica, and Sarchimor varieties alongside Palm trees to supplement their income. The palm trees are Palma Camedor and are sold in Mexico and other countries in the Americas as ornamental plants for homes. The growing of the palms not only supplements the income of the brothers but also provides shade to the coffee plants.
The Arellano family, walking through their farm, El Eden.
One of the most rewarding parts of the trip was meeting the producers, the people who dedicate their lives to coffee. I will always remember the warmth with which I was greeted at each community and farm. As my trip came to an end, I realised that visiting these coffee farms was about much more than just tasting great coffee. It was a journey into the heart of Mexico's coffee culture, where the people behind the beans are as remarkable as the coffee itself.
We are continuing to look for and work with producers in Mexico. We are hopeful that we will be able to secure some high-quality coffee from the communities that I visited this year, or the next. Keep an eye out for our monthly bulletins for any announcements about new coffees on the horizon.